Photo Essay by Christopher Ludgate
Waking up in the peaceful, sunlit atmosphere of Lake Seneca among a host of manicured rows boasting lush vines, I felt compelled to let the stillness be for a while. The deep blue lake beyond my private balcony at the Inn at Glenora mirrored the crystal clear sky.
The air wasn’t quite crisp yet, but signs of autumn were in the midst and the Finger Lakes region of western New York wore it seamlessly well. The serene post-summer landscape was settling in, and the year’s harvest looked to be bountiful. I felt the surrounding natural beauty call out to play in its waterfalls and gorges, stroll through history, make friends at the farm, and eventually find some time with the endlessly flowing local wine.
Clocking in at a four-hour drive from Toronto or New York City, the Finger Lakes region welcomes road-trippers from all over, and for many, a visit is an annual rite of passage. Renowned as the oldest winery of the lakes, the tasting room at century-old Glenora Wine Cellar was adjacent to the Inn and was the place to be the evening before.
Naturally, a bottle or two followed me back to my room. I indulged in the moonlit views with a bit of solitude by the fire with room service that arrived cloaked in cloches from the popular restaurant at the Inn.
Wine Country
Often referred to as the Napa Valley of the East, Finger Lakes Wine Country, which is the largest wine region in New York, offers wine trails galore through its Cayuga, Keuka, and Seneca lakes. After making a few reservations, I went rogue around Lake Seneca, exploring with a friend, on our own leisurely route of tastings, but there were shuttles with groups making the rounds as well.
A Wine Trail Passport is also available through visitfingerlakes.com. The pass includes a variety of local discounts while exploring impressive world-class Cab Francs, Rieslings, Pinots, and more. Pacing ourselves, we lingered at Leidenfrost Vineyards with a nice Gewurztraminer.
More educational tour experiences are also available for those who want a deeper look into the vintner’s craft and the journey from seed to bottle. At Wagner Vineyards, I met New York’s first female wine-maker, Ann Raffetto.
Veteran Raffetto got her start after earning a degree in enology and moving to the region as wineries began to pop up back in the 1980s. Wagner has a loyal tasting club following as well as public tastings that tout thirty wines to choose from while overlooking a sweeping panorama of the lake grounds. I could have spent the day into sunset there, as many do.
A variety of wine-centric events celebrate the importance of local agriculture. The region’s vintners also have a long-established Wine Alliance, which hosts charity events with a mutually supportive community. One can expect pairings with local cheeses, herbs, and hand-made chocolates in the mix. Plus, other hands-on activities like cherry picking are full-on immersive experiences.
Holistic Viticulture
Perched between the aisles of a lush terroir, a state-of-the-art de-stemmer craned its neck as if patiently standing watch. The partially harvested field had neatly staggered solar panels interspersed among the vines. Here at Lamoreaux Landing, owner Mark Wagner took me for a spin around the property and described the winery’s dedication to sustainable viticulture. The third-generation winery institutes realistic green practices throughout its twenty-three vineyards.
“Green decisions not only protect the health of our employees, consumers, and neighbours but they also ensure our ability to continue to grow and deliver the best possible wine for generations to come,” the vintner explained.
Wagner’s holistic philosophy is a testament that extends to the green practices of much of the community and local farms. They know the Finger Lakes region is a special place. There is a micro-climate unique to the region that is largely imparted by the great depth of the lakes themselves. You could sense it in the hovering atmosphere.
I did some research on Lamoreaux Landing’s Pinot Noir while there and can report back that another bottle followed me home.
Farm Sanctuary
Home to countless rescue animals over the years, Farm Sanctuary is a one-hundred-seventy-five-acre refuge nestled next to Sugar Hill State Forest in the Finger Lakes region. The safe haven began with a single act of humane kindness in the rescue of Hilda, a sheep that was brutally discarded on top of a ‘death pile’ at a meat farm facility. That was back in 1986 and Hilda’s pioneer advocate was Gene Bauer, founder of Farm Sanctuary, the leading advocate in the reform of the animal agriculture system in the US.
Rolling up to the sprawling, hilly pasture of Farm Sanctuary, I could already feel the tranquillity in the atmosphere. I met Sam, my Sanctuary Guide, and we strolled into the sunny fields, where I met new friends Merlin, Benedict, and Jon Stewart. The latter is a long-time advocate of the Sanctuary. In fact, Stewart now has a similar facility on his own farm in New Jersey.
Hearing the names and rescue stories of these countless non-predatory beauties, I was excited to make new friends, welcoming the licks, the winks, the rubs, and funny sounds. With some, it takes time, but the contact, connection, and mutual gentle exchange with these guys was indeed therapy for all.
There was beauty all around and I couldn’t help the complexity of feelings being evoked knowing the unimaginable struggles of these innocents. Discarded alive on a pile…? Jesus. But pulling me back into the moment was this overwhelming joy, seeing for myself the ultimately winning story of each individual animal here; safe, appropriately cared for, and rehabilitated roaming free in harmony with loads of new friends. It is reassuring to see that kind of compassion at work. Some say it’s life-changing.
With a significant impact over the years, the Sanctuary’s mission to rescue, educate, and advocate shines a light on the cycle of destruction of factory farming and abuse as well as environmentalism and human health. Awareness seems to be key in combating factory farming, advocating for reforms, and promoting an understanding of farm animals and the benefits of plant-based living.
“In recent years, science has confirmed the inhumane and destructive impact of animal agriculture as a food system based on interrelated oppression and injustice,” my guide cited.
The Farm Sanctuary holds numerous special events, fundraisers, and celebrations, has a voluntourism program, and also has a facility in Los Angeles.
The Gorge Trail
At the entrance of the Gorge Trail, I could hear the soothing echo of rushing water falling into the flume of Glen Creek below. The layered grooves of glacial etchings stretched along the massive sculpted shale and sandstone fluidly. I walked along the two-mile trail, up carved-out steps, and through cavernous nooks, hiking upon natural terrain. I found myself behind a cool window of water, sheltered beneath the Cavern Cascade falls inside my own little sanctuary for a moment.
The Finger Lakes is known for its waterfalls, and in Watkins Glen State Park, there are nineteen of them. Post-season meant ample room to meander freely in the gorge enjoying its tranquil energy in the cool mist even more. I love off-season trips. There’s a rope bridge if you’re looking for a thrill, and Jacob’s Ladder is a more direct, though lengthy climb to the top. It’s a favourite among photographers, hiking enthusiasts, sightseers, and birdwatchers. It’s a haven and a masterpiece. There is also the seventy-eight-mile Seneca Wine Trail, a scenic cycling path that runs through part of the park, but it is advised to save the wine for after, of course.
The upper part of Watkins Glen has more wooded trails with opportunities for rustic picnicking, camping, and an array of other recreational park activities. The Gorge Trail is open from spring to autumn and is accessible by the Watkins Glen Marina at the southern tip of Lake Seneca, where there is an assortment of boat tours available, as well as parking for the gorge.
Crafty Corning in the Finger Lakes
It’s easy to spend a day marvelling at the extensive history of the art of glass blowing in the world’s most extensive collection of mind-blowing pieces at the nearby Corning Museum of Glass. Visitors are privy to demos and are encouraged to step into the studio for a brief instruction from the experts before having the opportunity to blow a piece of your own. I had already reserved my spot and my creative juices were flowing after roaming the museum’s collection in the Contemporary Art and Design Wing.
“People love coming here and get the chance to create something unique and beautiful they can keep forever. It’s an experience, and it’s not just some old paperweight,” my friendly instructor informed us as my friend and I fawned over which hues to choose for our pumpkins. I went traditional…with a twist. And I picked up a matching lamp in the very tantalizing gift shop.
From the Corning Museum, it’s a leisurely walk over the Centerway Bridge above the Chemung River to historic Market Street in the Gaffer District of Corning. The charming old village is peppered with eateries, sports pubs, arts and crafts retail, and cultural spots throughout. Colourful posters of outdoor Market Street events hung in all the windows, many featuring local artists and music. Visually, it’s an inviting eyeful of quaint complete with the ice cream and specialty candy shops.
Fittingly, the Rockwell Museum is also in the neighbourhood in the restored nineteenth-century Old City Hall on Cedar Street. The collection includes a mix of Native American art with Americana. Pop into the Visitor’s Center near Centerway Square on Market Street by the big clock tower.
Chris is a writer, photographer, and award-winning filmmaker with a background in hometown NYC’s indie scene. With tailor-made itineraries beyond the ordinary, his travel stories combine culture, wellness, the outdoors, luxury, and history. He’s a longtime advocate for holistic health and animal rights as well as an avid gardener, cook, and cat dad.