All fairytales aside, I believe there actually is a special kind of magic in these atmospheric hills of Ireland. It lingers somewhere in the serene morning mist. There’s a symbiotic quality with us and nature here. And while that may be ubiquitous in the pretty Emerald Isle, it became all the more immersive as I tuned in to the slow, gentle pace of the winding River Shannon, exploring lovely little villages, feeling unrushed in hidden heartlands.
Words & Images by Christopher Ludgate
I felt it wandering the hills of Glencar by Sligo and following the sun along trails with wide bogland loops. It was in the birdsong while drifting on quiet loughs, and in the air as I slept soundly, tucked in by castle gardens as it rained. It was there when I danced with the spirits of Drumshanbo.
In the hidden heartlands of Leitrim and beyond, it was an invitation to the comforts of local culture, set amid landscapes both wild and bucolic. It felt remote and grounding, with all the beauty and charms, and indeed, it was a dreamy spell to be under.
Welcome to County Leitrim
Looking out from my second-floor window at Lough Rynn Castle in County Leitrim, I saw the lough in the distance, framed just so in the pane. An elegant white statue watched over the tranquil 300-acre Victorian luxe estate, and thick petrichor rose from the ground.
My cushy room was ensconced in creamy velvet and silks with tasselled, billowing curtains. A canopied path to the walled gardens lured me to wander outside as the early light wrapped the castle in an aura of romance. Warm tea and scones awaited in the estate’s John McGahern Library, the literary namesake of one of Leitrim’s great authors. I sang praises of dinner service there the night before.
One morning, I found myself on the dewy, lush plateau of the Dartry Mountains in Leitrim, listening as resounding herd calls bounced through the air. A thunderous sound grew close, and I felt it beneath my feet. Then, excited bleats grew near, rushing in like a river from the hills. The meal calls of Farmer Des were something the flock knew well, and suddenly hundreds of the happiest sheep I’d ever seen were all around me. It’s the kind of exhilarating, unexpected moment that stays with you.
Des is the proprietor of the Glencar Alpacas, and his family has been the stewards of these parts for generations. He introduced Aston, Sonny, Arlo, gentle Brad, and all of the adorable alpacas as they snacked from my hand. I shimmied into the provided gumboots and joined a hike with Des and the gang through the glacial valley, slow and cautious through the thicket, willow trees, and fuzzy hazel.
Upon the foothills toward dramatic limestone cliffs, a panorama for my mind’s eye to capture. Following the hike, afternoon tea was at teaSHED, next to idyllic Glencar Waterfall with Glencar Lough rolling beside us.
Adventure, Gently
A friend and I pushed off into the River Bonet, armed with oars in our canoe at Adventure Gently. As is often the case in Ireland, the moody weather passed quickly, and the tranquil waters welcomed us, carrying our boat along peaceful scenic banks. Gliding along in those moments, all that existed was a beautiful silence between the gentle rippling of water and the joyful language of birds.
Back on land, Graham and Adrienne, who created Adventure Gently together, had a colourful array of freshly baked treats and refreshments for us on their deck. The young couple described their inspiration as “a deep love for canoeing and creating connection to the serene local countryside while supporting wellbeing through mindful movement, relaxation, and outdoor experiences.” Yoga and meditation are also among the immersive offerings in the countryside.
Afterward, an impromptu detour to nearby historic Parke’s Castle on the atmospheric shore of Lough Gill was a photographer’s haven. These spontaneous moments, in addition to nature immersions, are what an Ireland adventure is all about.
Well, okay, the spirits, too.
The Spirits of Drumshanbo
I savoured the rural surroundings while cycling the towpath trail along the scenic Shannon Blueway, a network of scenic trails, one morning. Friendly locals of picturesque Drumshanbo, population 1,200, sparked smiles as I pedalled by. Wildlife frolicked by the canal’s edge. Ahead, Seamus Gibbons, owner of Jackalope Cycle Trail and former lockkeeper, regaled a group with folklore and tales of the historic canal trade route.
In the distance was pristine Acres Lake Floating Boardwalk, Ireland’s first of its kind, built directly over the open water. Freshwater lilies floated all around it as the lake sparkled in warm sunlight. I stopped for a moment to enjoy it all before crossing to The Shed Distillery, where good spirits, a little storytelling, good eats, and levity by the Honey Badger Bar awaited.
Inside, a tour of the Origin Green-certified distillery recounted PJ Rigley’s extensive search for the right exotic Asian botanicals. The search became a great adventure in exotic herbs and eventually led to the sourcing of the perfect botanical infusion of Gunpowder green tea with traditional Irish Meadowsweet.
Rigley’s Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin is now a renowned, award-winning favourite for connoisseurs. The distillery’s botanical museum features educational artifacts from the exciting journey of the artisanal spirit. Sausage Tree vodka and American-style single-pot are on the menu, too.
The Waterways of Fermanagh
Deep underground, beneath the foothills of the Cuilcagh Mountains, I walked the shadowy labyrinth of the Marble Arch Caves in Fermanagh, Northern Ireland. The acoustics of the subterranean Cladagh River combined with water droplets falling from three-hundred-million-year-old limestone formations created a cool, ambient vibe.
The warm glow of lanterns lit the way as I was guided through this fascinating underworld 200 ft below. Ahead, a sea of yoga mats was rolled out, with instructor Genny from Earth Yoga ready to begin a series of slow vinyasa cave yoga, an immersive first for me.
Now, that is hidden heartlands.
It was quiet, adrift on Lough Erne in nearby Enniskillen. The smooth, even flow beneath the boat kept the water calm, minimizing environmental impact. The only electric passenger boat in Ireland, the Island Discovery was built by owner Skipper Barry, who looked at home behind the wheel as we glided.
Inside, it’s a bespoke small group venue with solar panels, tables, and panoramic views. In the open air, by the pulpit, I gazed at castles and old huts while catching glimpses of kingfishers flying by the shoreline. There’s nothing like the peace & quiet of being out on the water.
Before spa time and a good sleep at Lough Erne Resort, I hopped on the Taste of Enniskillen tour with artisan shops, great pubs & restaurants galore. As evening set in, I wandered with famous Tickety Moo Ice Cream, ogling street art depicting the town’s literary history, including Sam Beckett and Oscar Wilde.
The unassuming gem of Leitrim is in the old province of Connacht, two hours by car or train northwest of the bustling hub of Dublin. The route runs along parts of the National Famine Way Trail. Mary Lynch’s Pub by Royal Canal offers a nourishing respite along the way with a beautiful classic pub aesthetic. Fermanagh is about an hour’s drive north of Leitrim.