A Photo Essay by Jerry Olivas
Croatia has a lot to offer everywhere, but for hill towns one very special place to visit is Motovun, in the north, on the Istria Peninsula. This place checks all the boxes for character and charm. The name itself is said to have derived from the Celtic word Montona, meaning “a town in the hills.”
You can experience Motovun in a day, even half a day, well, maybe an hour, but to experience its full laid-back ambiance, you need a few days.
Getting to Motovun: Your Journey to the Heart of Istria
There is no airport, rail station, or bus station, for that matter, in Motovun. Croatia offers bus and rail services, but they are limited. The easiest option is flying into Pula, renting a car, and driving an hour, mostly on a four-lane toll road, to Motovun.
You could also fly to Zagreb or Ljubljana (Slovenia). Driving from Ljubljana takes about two hours, while Zagreb is roughly three hours away. From Trieste, Italy, the drive takes two hours, and from Venice, it’s about three. Ferries operate along the Croatian coast and from Italy, reaching Istrian towns like Poreč, Rovinj, and Pula, where you can rent a car.
I recommend flying to Pula, renting a car, taking the toll road north, and then the short two-lane road to Motovun. Drive carefully on the two-lane roads as cyclists often share the route, and they have the right of way. Motovun sits on a hill, and its narrow cobblestone streets are mostly pedestrian-only. Visitors often park in the well-lit lot at the bottom of the hill and take a shuttle bus to the town. From there, it’s a short walk over uneven cobblestones into the center.
Croatia’s hilly terrain means you’ll often be navigating slopes, so take care with roller bags and watch your step. If needed, your hotel, B&B, or apartment host may pick you up at the parking lot—just arrange a time in advance.
Stay in Style: Where Comfort Meets Charm in Motovun
There are a few choices for where to stay in Motovun. There is one main hotel, Boutique Hotel Kaštel, where my wife and I stayed, as well as a few B&Bs and apartments. The Boutique Hotel Kaštel was a perfect fit for us. Staying in a B&B or apartment would have probably meant being on a more rigid arrival and departure schedule, possibly with tight living quarters, and the necessity to stock up on some supplies.
The Boutique Hotel Kaštel has only thirty-three rooms, so it’s small, but it packs a big punch for amenities, including a restaurant, spa services, and even an indoor pool. And like with all of our travels in Croatia, the staff were very nice and helpful. We especially enjoyed their secret garden where we played an unusual game of Pendulum Bowling, where a hard ball swinging on a rope is used to knock over bowling pins. This was the perfect accommodation to chill out and unwind.
Savour the Flavors: Truffles, Wine & Culinary Delights
Croatian food is excellent, and there is no shortage of restaurants. Motovun itself seems to be a destination for foodies, with all the restaurants nearly full for lunch and dinner. That said, we always seemed to get a nice, quiet table, usually outside. Boutique Hotel Kaštel has an excellent restaurant, Restaurant Kaštel, with terrace seating. We shared the gnocchi once, and it was delicious, but everything looked good. However, Croatians and visitors to Croatia like to smoke, so try and get a table upwind if possible.
The specialty is anything with local white truffles and, if you don’t like olive oil, sorry, because it’s a staple. Croatian olive oil is exceptionally flavorful. Mostly main dishes are served with white truffles and olive oil base sauce. Fresh grilled fish from the Adriatic with white truffles and olive oil sauce was our favourite. As for dessert, it is best to share here because the portions are large. They will not disappoint—especially the gelato. Local and fresh seems to be the rule for everything.
Croatian Wines
Croatian beer is good, but Croatian wines are spectacular and very reasonably priced. So, of course, we always had a bottle for lunch and another bottle for dinner, to split. Motovun restaurants mostly serve local whites and reds. Malvazija is a fabulous white and a good choice for lunch. For dinner, a local red made with Teran grapes was our favourite with its full-bodied, mild mixed fruit flavours.
The day we left, we made it a point to stop at the Fakin Winery, just a few miles from Motovun, for a tasting of their malvasia, Teran, and other wines. This was well worth the stop. A host of liquors are served throughout Croatia with Motovun offering some local apple brandy that is perfect to top off an evening.
Unwind and Explore: The Magic of Motovun’s Medieval Streets
It’s tempting to go on one of the organized tours from Motovun, like truffle hunting or wine and olive oil tasting. Even a visit to some of the other nearby hill towns or coastal communities is enticing. These all look like fun, and you can get information from the Tourist Board Motovun office in the main square, just a few steps from the Boutique Hotel Kaštel. But we came to Motovun to chill out and take in the vibes of this picturesque and tranquil place.
We spent our time taking slow and careful walks on the few cobblestone streets, taking in Motovun’s medieval Venetian Renaissance architecture and views of the surrounding Miran Valley. Day visitors don’t arrive until late morning, and they are all gone by late afternoon. So, early in the day, afternoon, and evening, the entire small town is yours. Of course, in the off-season, I doubt many visit Motovun.
You don’t need to stroll very far in Motovun to discover something interesting. It helps to have a somewhat curious nature, but it’s not mandatory because every step seems to offer something special. You very quickly start to step into Motovun’s past, with the entire Istria peninsula having a rich and long history with centuries of many changes in political control.
There are plenty of benches and places to sit all around Motovun and the views of the valleys surrounding Motovun are spectacular. The best views are from the top of the about 100-foot-high town’s bell tower; just over 1,000 steps to the top. Take it slow and easy, and you will be in for a magnificent, well-earned reward.
Saint Stephen Church, designed by Venetian architect Andrea Palladio in the 14th century, is next to the bell tower and is definitely worth a visit. It is a nice, quiet, and cool place to rest after conquering the bell tower. Then you can take a short walk on the city wall with great views of the valleys below or be tempted by some of the local art in the small private galleries.
Step Back in Time: Legends, Ghosts, and Ley Lines
If you are inclined to research, you will find some notable people who have lived and worked in Motovun. Mario Andretti, the famous race car driver, was born here. There is a plaque on the wall of the house where he lived. The Renaissance music printer and composer Andrea Antico was also born in Motovun and numerous other artists worked and lived in Motovun.
If you like myths and legends, Motovun is packed with them. Our favourite here was the one of Veli Jože (Big Joe). The 19th—and 20th-century Croatian writer and poet Vladimir Nazor made popular the story of this mythical giant and protector of Motovun. He was a good giant, but when he got mad, it was said that he would shake the bell tower.
Certainly, there are ghosts in Motovun and strolling around at night is a bit eerie, but that just added to the fun. I didn’t see any, however, but certainly, they were watching us, so we were always on our best behaviour. You do get an enchanting feeling when walking the cobblestone streets that a lot has happened, some good and some not-so-good.
This is heightened by the belief that Motovun sits on geographic ley lines (also called dragon lines) which can be a positive force for health and wellbeing. Amateur archaeologists have determined these lines, so they are not scientifically verified. Stonehenge and other monolithic sites around the world are also considered to be located on ley lines.
My wife and I don’t follow this metaphysical way of thinking, but Motovun definitely imparts a feeling of positive energy. The day we left, we felt renewed vigour, insight, and a positive perspective. We already feel the pull to return to the Peninsula to relax, recharge, and take in the good karma.
Jerry Olivas lives in Southern California, where he surfs and cares for his two cats. His recent writings and photos include Short Éditions, “Tracks and Pie,” New English Review, “Mrs. Tar, Chain Smoker with Style,” and European Travel Magazine, “La Rioja—Wine and So Much More.”